Why this chapter matters for UPSC: Global supply chains, India's garment/textile exports, labour rights in export industries, and the inequality between countries and within countries in global trade are GS3 topics. India's textile and garment exports, the role of WTO, and fair trade principles are regularly tested.


PART 1 — Quick Reference Tables

India's Textile and Garment Industry

IndicatorValueNotes
Textile + Apparel exports~$37–39 billion (2024–25 estimate)2nd largest earner after engineering goods
Employment in textile sector~45 million (direct) + ~100 million (indirect)2nd largest employer after agriculture
Tirupur (Tamil Nadu)~$3–4 billion garment exports"Knitwear capital of India"; T-shirts, hosiery
India's global rank2nd largest textile manufacturer in worldAfter China
PM MITRA scheme7 integrated textile parks; ₹4,445 crorePlug-and-play facilities for textile industry

Key Fibre and Textile Clusters

ProductCluster
Cotton knitwear (T-shirts, hosiery)Tirupur (Tamil Nadu)
Silk sareesVaranasi (Banarasi), Kanchipuram, Mysore
Woollen carpetsBhadohi, Mirzapur (UP), Kashmir
Jute productsWest Bengal (Hooghly belt)
Leather goodsAgra (footwear), Chennai, Kanpur
HandloomSambalpuri (Odisha), Pochampally (Telangana), Jamdani (WB)
Cotton textilesSurat (Gujarat), Coimbatore, Ahmedabad

PART 2 — Detailed Notes

Global Supply Chains and Who Benefits

Key Term

The shirt's journey (NCERT example):

  1. Cotton farmer (Vidarbha/Telangana): Grows cotton; sells to ginning mill; receives a fraction of final value; faces debt, low MSP
  2. Ginning mill: Separates cotton fibre from seed; sells cotton bales
  3. Spinning mill: Converts cotton into yarn
  4. Weaving/knitting: Yarn into fabric (in Tirupur: knitted fabric for T-shirts)
  5. Garment manufacturing (Tirupur): Cutting, stitching, finishing; mostly by contract labour workers
  6. Export agent: Connects factory to foreign buyer
  7. International brand (UK, USA, Europe): Buys from Tirupur; adds brand name; sells in high-street store for 10–20× the purchase price
  8. Consumer (in London or New York): Buys the shirt

Who benefits most?

  • The international brand captures the highest margin (brand value, design, retail markup)
  • The garment worker in Tirupur gets the least relative to the shirt's final selling price
  • This is the fundamental inequality of global trade — labour is cheap in the Global South; brands/retail are expensive in the Global North

Tirupur's garment workers:

  • Mostly women migrants (from agricultural districts)
  • Work 10–12 hours/day; production targets; often contract/informal employment
  • Workers' rights: Subject to Minimum Wage Act, but enforcement is weak
  • Sumangali scheme (historical): Young women recruited with promise of lump sum at end of 3 years; bonded labour characteristics; campaigns against it by NGOs; largely abolished but informal versions persist

Fair Trade and Global Trade Inequalities

UPSC Connect

UPSC GS3 — International trade and equity:

Why poorer countries face disadvantage in global trade:

  1. Terms of trade: Developing countries export primary commodities (cotton, coffee, tea, minerals) whose prices are volatile and often declining; import manufactured goods whose prices rise → deteriorating terms of trade over time
  2. Tariff barriers: Developed countries impose tariffs on processed goods (e.g., Indian cotton is allowed duty-free but Indian cotton shirts face tariffs) — discourages industrialisation in developing countries
  3. Agricultural subsidies: USA and EU heavily subsidise their farmers ($100+ billion/year combined) → their farm exports are artificially cheap → undercut Indian and African farmers in global markets
  4. Intellectual property: Brands, patents, and trademarks owned by Northern companies; Generic drug production restricted (TRIPS agreement) until flexibilities used

WTO and inequalities:

  • WTO (World Trade Organisation): Governs international trade rules; 166 members; India is a founding member
  • India has successfully argued for: Special and differential treatment for developing countries; flexibilities in TRIPS for medicines; protection for food security programs (public stockholding)
  • Doha Development Round (2001–present): Ongoing agricultural subsidy negotiations; largely stalled; India has blocked agreements it sees as against its farmers' interests
  • MSP and WTO: India's MSP-based procurement is contested by some WTO members as trade-distorting subsidy; India argues food security exemption

Fair Trade movement:

  • Alternative trade system that guarantees farmers and workers in developing countries a minimum fair price
  • Fairtrade certified products: Coffee, cocoa, tea, cotton, bananas
  • Premium paid to farmer cooperatives for community development
  • Critiques: Higher prices borne by consumers; doesn't address structural inequalities; market share is tiny

India's Textile Exports and Policy

Explainer

India's textile sector — significance and challenges:

Significance:

  • 2nd largest employer after agriculture
  • Major foreign exchange earner
  • Women's employment: ~70% of garment workers are women
  • India has advantage in cotton (2nd largest producer by volume; largest by cultivated area; China leads production), silk (2nd after China), jute (world's largest producer)

Challenges:

  • China competition: China has higher automation, scale; lower per-unit costs for mass market garments
  • Bangladesh competition: Duty-free access to EU market; lower labour costs; Bangladesh is world's 2nd largest garment exporter
  • Technology: Indian garment sector is less automated than Chinese/Vietnamese competitors
  • Infrastructure: Power, water, logistics costs are high in India

Policy support:

  • Production Linked Incentive (PLI) Scheme for Textiles: ₹10,683 crore; incentives for man-made fibre (MMF) and technical textile production; target segments where India is weak
  • PM MITRA (PM Mega Integrated Textile Region and Apparel): 7 greenfield textile parks with common infrastructure; plug-and-play facilities
  • RoSCTL (Rebate of State and Central Taxes and Levies): Refunds taxes on exported garments → makes Indian exports more competitive on price
  • TUFS (Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme): Subsidised loans for modernising textile machinery

Handloom and handicraft:

  • India has world's largest handloom sector: 35 lakh handlooms, 43 lakh weavers
  • GI tags protect regional specialties: Banarasi silk, Kanchipuram silk, Jamdani, Pochampally ikat, Channapatna toys
  • Online marketplaces (Amazon Karigar, Flipkart Samarth, ONDC) helping artisans reach global markets

[Additional] 8a. India-UK FTA (2025) — Textile Gains and India's FTA Landscape

The chapter covers trade inequalities between developing and developed countries but lacks India's most significant recent bilateral trade deal — the India-UK FTA signed July 24, 2025 — which eliminates duties on India's garments entering the UK and directly addresses the disadvantage described in the chapter. Also tests alongside India-EU FTA and India-GCC FTA in UPSC GS2/GS3.

Key Term

Key Terms — India-UK FTA:

TermMeaning
India-UK CETAComprehensive Economic and Trade Agreement between India and UK — commonly called India-UK FTA; negotiations concluded May 6, 2025; formally signed July 24, 2025 (Modi's visit to UK; Chequers estate); awaits UK Parliamentary ratification
Bilateral trade (FY 2024-25)USD 23.16 billion India-UK merchandise and services trade; target = USD 100 billion by 2030
Tariff linesIndia gets zero duty on 99% of tariff lines for exports to UK; India opens 89.5% of its tariff lines to UK imports
India-EU FTAConcluded January 26, 2026 — largest FTA ever concluded by either party; ratification expected end-2026
India-GCC FTAFormal negotiations launched February 24, 2026; GCC = India's largest trading partner bloc (USD 178.56 billion, 15.42% of India's global trade in FY 2024-25)
UPSC Connect

[Additional] India-UK FTA — Textile Impact and India's FTA Landscape (GS3 — International Trade / GS2 — External Affairs):

India-UK FTA — key timeline:

EventDate
Negotiations launchedJanuary 2022
Negotiations concludedMay 6, 2025
FTA formally signedJuly 24, 2025 (PM Modi's visit to UK; signed at Chequers)
Current statusAwaits UK Parliamentary ratification (~1 year expected)
Existing DTAAIndia-UK Double Taxation Avoidance Agreement signed October 26, 1993 (continues separately)

India-UK trade statistics:

MetricValue
Bilateral trade (FY 2024-25)USD 23.16 billion
Trade boost projected (UK estimate)£25.5 billion/year additional bilateral trade
Tariff savings for UK exportersUp to £400 million/year initially → £900 million/year after 10 years
Trade targetUSD 100 billion by 2030

Textiles and garments — the core gain for India:

FeaturePre-FTAPost-FTA
UK duty on Indian garments9.5–12%Zero
UK duty on some footwear/carpetsUp to 16%Zero
Product categories eliminated1,143 textile product categories
India's competitive advantageChina/Vietnam pay 9.5–12% dutyIndia gets 10–12% price advantage over China/Vietnam

This directly addresses the chapter's point about developed countries imposing tariffs on processed goods from developing countries — the India-UK FTA eliminates this barrier for garments.

India's sectors benefiting most:

SectorBenefit
Textiles & ApparelZero duty on 1,143 categories; replaces 9.5–12% duty
Engineering goodsTariff elimination; exports could reach USD 7.5 billion by 2029-30
PharmaceuticalsExpanded market access
IT/Software services15–20% annual growth projected from current USD 32 billion (FY 2024-25)
Marine productsAccess to UK's USD 5.4 billion import market

What the UK gets from India (key concessions):

UK GainDetail
Scotch whiskyIndia reduces duty from 150% → 75% immediately; further to 40% by Year 10
Scotch Whisky Association estimate£1 billion additional exports over 5 years; 1,200 UK jobs
ServicesUK financial services, education, healthcare get deeper India access
Indian professionals1,800 Indian professionals/year (chefs, yoga instructors, classical musicians) get structured UK work permits

India's protected sensitive sectors (excluded from duty elimination): dairy, cereals, millets, pulses, apples, gold, jewellery, lab-grown diamonds.

India's FTA landscape (2025-26):

FTA PartnerStatus (May 2026)
UAE (CEPA)In force since May 1, 2022; first concluded under current government
Australia (ECTA/Interim FTA)Interim in force since December 29, 2022; full CETA negotiations continuing
UK (CETA)Signed July 24, 2025; awaiting ratification
EUConcluded January 26, 2026; largest FTA ever for both sides; ratification expected end-2026
GCCFormal negotiations launched February 24, 2026
CanadaFormal negotiations launched March 2, 2026

UPSC synthesis: India-UK FTA = GS3 International Trade. Key exam facts: FTA concluded = May 6, 2025 = signed = July 24, 2025 (Chequers); bilateral trade = USD 23.16 billion (FY 2024-25); India gets zero duty on 99% of tariff lines; India opens 89.5% of its tariff lines to UK; garment duty = 9.5–12% → zero covering 1,143 textile categories; India gets 10–12% price advantage over China/Vietnam; Scotch whisky = 150% → 75% → 40% (Year 10); India-EU FTA = concluded January 26, 2026; India-GCC FTA = negotiations launched February 24, 2026; GCC = India's largest trading partner bloc = USD 178.56 billion. Prelims trap: The FTA was concluded on May 6, 2025 but signed on July 24, 2025 — these are two different events (conclusion = end of negotiations; signing = formal ceremony; ratification = still pending); garment duty eliminated = 9.5–12% (NOT 25% or 30% — common wrong options); India-UK DTAA is a separate and older agreement (1993) — the 2025 FTA is NOT a DTAA; India's sensitive sectors (dairy, cereals, pulses) are excluded from tariff elimination (India negotiated protection for agriculture).

[Additional] 8b. Four Labour Codes 2019-2020 — Framework and Implementation

The chapter discusses garment workers' conditions (Tirupur) under informal/contract labour but lacks India's four Labour Codes (2019-2020) that consolidate 29 central labour laws — enacted to modernise labour law, first implemented nationwide November 21, 2025 — directly tested in UPSC GS3 and GS2 (Social Justice).

Key Term

Key Terms — Four Labour Codes:

TermMeaning
Four Labour CodesFour Acts passed by Parliament (2019-2020) consolidating 29 central labour laws into a simpler framework; first nationwide implementation = November 21, 2025
Code on Wages 2019Consolidates 4 laws (Payment of Wages Act 1936, Minimum Wages Act 1948, Payment of Bonus Act 1965, Equal Remuneration Act 1976); introduces National Floor Wage concept; universal coverage
IR Code 2020Code on Industrial Relations, 2020 — consolidates 3 laws (Trade Unions Act 1926, Industrial Employment (Standing Orders) Act 1946, Industrial Disputes Act 1947); raises retrenchment permission threshold from 100 → 300 workers
SS Code 2020Code on Social Security, 2020 — consolidates 9 laws including EPF Act 1952 + ESI Act 1948; first-ever definition and social security provisions for gig workers and platform workers
OSH Code 2020Code on Occupational Safety, Health and Working Conditions, 2020 — consolidates 13 laws including Factories Act 1948; factory threshold = 10 workers (with power)
UPSC Connect

[Additional] Four Labour Codes — Key Provisions and UPSC-Tested Details (GS3 — Labour / GS2 — Social Justice):

Four Labour Codes — consolidation summary:

CodeParliament/Assent DateLaws ConsolidatedKey Change
Code on Wages, 2019August 8, 20194 lawsNational Floor Wage; universal coverage; 50% wage cap on allowances
Code on Industrial Relations (IR Code), 2020September 28, 20203 lawsRetrenchment permission threshold: 100 → 300 workers
Code on Social Security (SS Code), 2020September 28, 20209 lawsGig/platform workers formally covered for first time
Code on Occupational Safety, Health and Working Conditions (OSH Code), 2020September 28, 202013 lawsFactory threshold maintained at 10 workers (with power); compliance reduced from 55 forms → 20
Total29 laws

Implementation status: All four Codes' major provisions became effective nationwide November 21, 2025 (Central Government notification). States must frame their own rules for full operationalization — most states had published draft rules by early 2026.

Code on Wages, 2019 — key provisions:

ProvisionDetail
National Floor WageCentral Government fixes a national floor wage; no state can set minimum wages below this; different floors for different geographies
Universal coverageApplies to ALL workers — organised AND unorganised sectors (major expansion from earlier patchwork coverage)
50% wage cap on allowancesAllowances (HRA etc.) cannot exceed 50% of total remuneration; any excess is treated as wages (affects EPF/gratuity calculations)
Fixed-Term Employment (FTE)Formally codified; FTE workers entitled to gratuity after just 1 year (proportionate basis) vs. 5 years for regular employees
EPFO thresholdEPF applies to all establishments with 20 or more workers
ESIC coverageESIC (health insurance) now applies pan-India — removed the earlier "notified area" requirement

Code on Industrial Relations (IR Code), 2020 — key provisions:

ProvisionOld thresholdNew threshold
Prior govt. approval for retrenchment/lay-off/closure100 workers300 workers
Standing Orders (certified service rules) mandatory100 workers300 workers
Trade union negotiating agent recognitionAd hocFormal recognition framework introduced

"Hire and Fire" controversy: By raising the threshold from 100 → 300 workers, employers with up to 299 workers can retrench without prior government approval. Trade unions argue this enables easier dismissal in the vast majority of Indian industrial establishments. Industry groups argue it improves ease of doing business and attracts manufacturing investment.

Code on Social Security, 2020 — gig workers (landmark):

ProvisionDetail
Gig worker (defined)Person performing work outside traditional employer-employee relationship, earning from such activities
Platform worker (defined)Person engaged in work arranged through an online platform connecting buyers and service providers (e.g., Swiggy, Ola, Urban Company)
Aggregator contributionAggregators must contribute 1–2% of annual turnover (capped at 5% of payments to gig/platform workers) to a dedicated Social Security Fund
BenefitsLife and disability cover, accident insurance, health and maternity benefits, pension provisions
PortabilityAadhaar-linked and portable via e-Shram registration — benefits retained when switching platforms

OSH Code, 2020 — key thresholds:

ThresholdApplicability
Factory (with electrical power)10 or more workers
Factory (without electrical power)20 or more workers
Normal working hours8 hours/day and 48 hours/week
Overtime rateTwice normal wages (beyond 9 hours/day or 48 hours/week)
Welfare Officer required250 or more workers
Compliance simplificationForms: 55 → 20; Returns: 21 → 1; Registrations: 6 → 1

UPSC synthesis: Four Labour Codes = GS3 + GS2. Key exam facts: Code on Wages = August 8, 2019 = 4 laws consolidated = National Floor Wage; IR Code + SS Code + OSH Code = September 28, 2020 = 3+9+13 laws = total 29 laws; nationwide implementation = November 21, 2025; IR Code raises retrenchment threshold = 100 → 300 workers; SS Code = first definition of gig workers and platform workers = aggregator contribution = 1–2% of annual turnover; OSH Code factory threshold = 10 workers (with power); Code on Wages covers ALL workers in organised AND unorganised sectors. Prelims trap: Total central labour laws consolidated = 29 (NOT 44 — 44 was the initial figure of laws considered for rationalisation; the four codes actually consolidate 29); gig workers are first covered under SS Code 2020 (NOT Code on Wages — wages code covers all workers but gig worker social security is specifically under SS Code); IR Code retrenchment threshold = 300 workers (NOT 100 — 100 was the old threshold; it is now 300); Code on Wages assent = August 8, 2019 (the other three codes all have September 28, 2020 — do not mix them up); OSH Code factory threshold with power = 10 workers (same as old Factories Act threshold — this has NOT changed, but compliance procedures have been simplified).

Exam Strategy

Prelims traps:

  • Tirupur = knitwear/T-shirt capital (Tamil Nadu) — NOT saris or silk; knitwear and hosiery
  • India = 3rd or 4th largest garment exporter — China (#1), Bangladesh (#2), Vietnam (#3) are ahead; India's apparel exports ~$14–16 billion (2024); total textile+apparel = ~$34 billion
  • India = 2nd largest cotton producer (by volume; China #1; India is largest by cultivated area)
  • India = world's largest jute producer (~75% of world's jute production in Ganga delta; West Bengal + Bangladesh)
  • WTO Doha Round: Agricultural subsidies the sticking point; India + G20 developing countries vs USA + EU
  • PLI for Textiles focuses on MMF (man-made fibres) and technical textiles (NOT traditional cotton garments)
  • PM MITRA = 7 parks (not 5 or 10); Ministry of Textiles; greenfield textile parks

Practice Questions

Prelims:

  1. India is the world's largest producer of which of the following fibres?
    (a) Silk
    (b) Jute
    (c) Wool
    (d) Polyester

  2. The Production Linked Incentive (PLI) Scheme for Textiles specifically targets which segments?
    (a) Cotton garments and handloom products
    (b) Man-made fibres (MMF) and technical textiles
    (c) Silk and woollen products
    (d) Jute and coir products

  3. Which of the following statements about the WTO's Doha Development Round is correct?
    (a) It was successfully concluded in 2013
    (b) India agreed to reduce all agricultural subsidies
    (c) It remains largely unresolved, with agricultural subsidies being a major sticking point between developed and developing countries
    (d) India opted out of Doha Round negotiations