Why this chapter matters for UPSC: Global supply chains, India's garment/textile exports, labour rights in export industries, and the inequality between countries and within countries in global trade are GS3 topics. India's textile and garment exports, the role of WTO, and fair trade principles are regularly tested.
PART 1 — Quick Reference Tables
India's Textile and Garment Industry
| Indicator | Value | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Textile + Apparel exports | ~$37–39 billion (2024–25 estimate) | 2nd largest earner after engineering goods |
| Employment in textile sector | ~45 million (direct) + ~100 million (indirect) | 2nd largest employer after agriculture |
| Tirupur (Tamil Nadu) | ~$3–4 billion garment exports | "Knitwear capital of India"; T-shirts, hosiery |
| India's global rank | 2nd largest textile manufacturer in world | After China |
| PM MITRA scheme | 7 integrated textile parks; ₹4,445 crore | Plug-and-play facilities for textile industry |
Key Fibre and Textile Clusters
| Product | Cluster |
|---|---|
| Cotton knitwear (T-shirts, hosiery) | Tirupur (Tamil Nadu) |
| Silk sarees | Varanasi (Banarasi), Kanchipuram, Mysore |
| Woollen carpets | Bhadohi, Mirzapur (UP), Kashmir |
| Jute products | West Bengal (Hooghly belt) |
| Leather goods | Agra (footwear), Chennai, Kanpur |
| Handloom | Sambalpuri (Odisha), Pochampally (Telangana), Jamdani (WB) |
| Cotton textiles | Surat (Gujarat), Coimbatore, Ahmedabad |
PART 2 — Detailed Notes
Global Supply Chains and Who Benefits
The shirt's journey (NCERT example):
- Cotton farmer (Vidarbha/Telangana): Grows cotton; sells to ginning mill; receives a fraction of final value; faces debt, low MSP
- Ginning mill: Separates cotton fibre from seed; sells cotton bales
- Spinning mill: Converts cotton into yarn
- Weaving/knitting: Yarn into fabric (in Tirupur: knitted fabric for T-shirts)
- Garment manufacturing (Tirupur): Cutting, stitching, finishing; mostly by contract labour workers
- Export agent: Connects factory to foreign buyer
- International brand (UK, USA, Europe): Buys from Tirupur; adds brand name; sells in high-street store for 10–20× the purchase price
- Consumer (in London or New York): Buys the shirt
Who benefits most?
- The international brand captures the highest margin (brand value, design, retail markup)
- The garment worker in Tirupur gets the least relative to the shirt's final selling price
- This is the fundamental inequality of global trade — labour is cheap in the Global South; brands/retail are expensive in the Global North
Tirupur's garment workers:
- Mostly women migrants (from agricultural districts)
- Work 10–12 hours/day; production targets; often contract/informal employment
- Workers' rights: Subject to Minimum Wage Act, but enforcement is weak
- Sumangali scheme (historical): Young women recruited with promise of lump sum at end of 3 years; bonded labour characteristics; campaigns against it by NGOs; largely abolished but informal versions persist
Fair Trade and Global Trade Inequalities
UPSC GS3 — International trade and equity:
Why poorer countries face disadvantage in global trade:
- Terms of trade: Developing countries export primary commodities (cotton, coffee, tea, minerals) whose prices are volatile and often declining; import manufactured goods whose prices rise → deteriorating terms of trade over time
- Tariff barriers: Developed countries impose tariffs on processed goods (e.g., Indian cotton is allowed duty-free but Indian cotton shirts face tariffs) — discourages industrialisation in developing countries
- Agricultural subsidies: USA and EU heavily subsidise their farmers ($100+ billion/year combined) → their farm exports are artificially cheap → undercut Indian and African farmers in global markets
- Intellectual property: Brands, patents, and trademarks owned by Northern companies; Generic drug production restricted (TRIPS agreement) until flexibilities used
WTO and inequalities:
- WTO (World Trade Organisation): Governs international trade rules; 166 members; India is a founding member
- India has successfully argued for: Special and differential treatment for developing countries; flexibilities in TRIPS for medicines; protection for food security programs (public stockholding)
- Doha Development Round (2001–present): Ongoing agricultural subsidy negotiations; largely stalled; India has blocked agreements it sees as against its farmers' interests
- MSP and WTO: India's MSP-based procurement is contested by some WTO members as trade-distorting subsidy; India argues food security exemption
Fair Trade movement:
- Alternative trade system that guarantees farmers and workers in developing countries a minimum fair price
- Fairtrade certified products: Coffee, cocoa, tea, cotton, bananas
- Premium paid to farmer cooperatives for community development
- Critiques: Higher prices borne by consumers; doesn't address structural inequalities; market share is tiny
India's Textile Exports and Policy
India's textile sector — significance and challenges:
Significance:
- 2nd largest employer after agriculture
- Major foreign exchange earner
- Women's employment: ~70% of garment workers are women
- India has advantage in cotton (2nd largest producer by volume; largest by cultivated area; China leads production), silk (2nd after China), jute (world's largest producer)
Challenges:
- China competition: China has higher automation, scale; lower per-unit costs for mass market garments
- Bangladesh competition: Duty-free access to EU market; lower labour costs; Bangladesh is world's 2nd largest garment exporter
- Technology: Indian garment sector is less automated than Chinese/Vietnamese competitors
- Infrastructure: Power, water, logistics costs are high in India
Policy support:
- Production Linked Incentive (PLI) Scheme for Textiles: ₹10,683 crore; incentives for man-made fibre (MMF) and technical textile production; target segments where India is weak
- PM MITRA (PM Mega Integrated Textile Region and Apparel): 7 greenfield textile parks with common infrastructure; plug-and-play facilities
- RoSCTL (Rebate of State and Central Taxes and Levies): Refunds taxes on exported garments → makes Indian exports more competitive on price
- TUFS (Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme): Subsidised loans for modernising textile machinery
Handloom and handicraft:
- India has world's largest handloom sector: 35 lakh handlooms, 43 lakh weavers
- GI tags protect regional specialties: Banarasi silk, Kanchipuram silk, Jamdani, Pochampally ikat, Channapatna toys
- Online marketplaces (Amazon Karigar, Flipkart Samarth, ONDC) helping artisans reach global markets
[Additional] 8a. India-UK FTA (2025) — Textile Gains and India's FTA Landscape
The chapter covers trade inequalities between developing and developed countries but lacks India's most significant recent bilateral trade deal — the India-UK FTA signed July 24, 2025 — which eliminates duties on India's garments entering the UK and directly addresses the disadvantage described in the chapter. Also tests alongside India-EU FTA and India-GCC FTA in UPSC GS2/GS3.
Key Terms — India-UK FTA:
| Term | Meaning |
|---|---|
| India-UK CETA | Comprehensive Economic and Trade Agreement between India and UK — commonly called India-UK FTA; negotiations concluded May 6, 2025; formally signed July 24, 2025 (Modi's visit to UK; Chequers estate); awaits UK Parliamentary ratification |
| Bilateral trade (FY 2024-25) | USD 23.16 billion India-UK merchandise and services trade; target = USD 100 billion by 2030 |
| Tariff lines | India gets zero duty on 99% of tariff lines for exports to UK; India opens 89.5% of its tariff lines to UK imports |
| India-EU FTA | Concluded January 26, 2026 — largest FTA ever concluded by either party; ratification expected end-2026 |
| India-GCC FTA | Formal negotiations launched February 24, 2026; GCC = India's largest trading partner bloc (USD 178.56 billion, 15.42% of India's global trade in FY 2024-25) |
[Additional] India-UK FTA — Textile Impact and India's FTA Landscape (GS3 — International Trade / GS2 — External Affairs):
India-UK FTA — key timeline:
| Event | Date |
|---|---|
| Negotiations launched | January 2022 |
| Negotiations concluded | May 6, 2025 |
| FTA formally signed | July 24, 2025 (PM Modi's visit to UK; signed at Chequers) |
| Current status | Awaits UK Parliamentary ratification (~1 year expected) |
| Existing DTAA | India-UK Double Taxation Avoidance Agreement signed October 26, 1993 (continues separately) |
India-UK trade statistics:
| Metric | Value |
|---|---|
| Bilateral trade (FY 2024-25) | USD 23.16 billion |
| Trade boost projected (UK estimate) | £25.5 billion/year additional bilateral trade |
| Tariff savings for UK exporters | Up to £400 million/year initially → £900 million/year after 10 years |
| Trade target | USD 100 billion by 2030 |
Textiles and garments — the core gain for India:
| Feature | Pre-FTA | Post-FTA |
|---|---|---|
| UK duty on Indian garments | 9.5–12% | Zero |
| UK duty on some footwear/carpets | Up to 16% | Zero |
| Product categories eliminated | — | 1,143 textile product categories |
| India's competitive advantage | China/Vietnam pay 9.5–12% duty | India gets 10–12% price advantage over China/Vietnam |
This directly addresses the chapter's point about developed countries imposing tariffs on processed goods from developing countries — the India-UK FTA eliminates this barrier for garments.
India's sectors benefiting most:
| Sector | Benefit |
|---|---|
| Textiles & Apparel | Zero duty on 1,143 categories; replaces 9.5–12% duty |
| Engineering goods | Tariff elimination; exports could reach USD 7.5 billion by 2029-30 |
| Pharmaceuticals | Expanded market access |
| IT/Software services | 15–20% annual growth projected from current USD 32 billion (FY 2024-25) |
| Marine products | Access to UK's USD 5.4 billion import market |
What the UK gets from India (key concessions):
| UK Gain | Detail |
|---|---|
| Scotch whisky | India reduces duty from 150% → 75% immediately; further to 40% by Year 10 |
| Scotch Whisky Association estimate | £1 billion additional exports over 5 years; 1,200 UK jobs |
| Services | UK financial services, education, healthcare get deeper India access |
| Indian professionals | 1,800 Indian professionals/year (chefs, yoga instructors, classical musicians) get structured UK work permits |
India's protected sensitive sectors (excluded from duty elimination): dairy, cereals, millets, pulses, apples, gold, jewellery, lab-grown diamonds.
India's FTA landscape (2025-26):
| FTA Partner | Status (May 2026) |
|---|---|
| UAE (CEPA) | In force since May 1, 2022; first concluded under current government |
| Australia (ECTA/Interim FTA) | Interim in force since December 29, 2022; full CETA negotiations continuing |
| UK (CETA) | Signed July 24, 2025; awaiting ratification |
| EU | Concluded January 26, 2026; largest FTA ever for both sides; ratification expected end-2026 |
| GCC | Formal negotiations launched February 24, 2026 |
| Canada | Formal negotiations launched March 2, 2026 |
UPSC synthesis: India-UK FTA = GS3 International Trade. Key exam facts: FTA concluded = May 6, 2025 = signed = July 24, 2025 (Chequers); bilateral trade = USD 23.16 billion (FY 2024-25); India gets zero duty on 99% of tariff lines; India opens 89.5% of its tariff lines to UK; garment duty = 9.5–12% → zero covering 1,143 textile categories; India gets 10–12% price advantage over China/Vietnam; Scotch whisky = 150% → 75% → 40% (Year 10); India-EU FTA = concluded January 26, 2026; India-GCC FTA = negotiations launched February 24, 2026; GCC = India's largest trading partner bloc = USD 178.56 billion. Prelims trap: The FTA was concluded on May 6, 2025 but signed on July 24, 2025 — these are two different events (conclusion = end of negotiations; signing = formal ceremony; ratification = still pending); garment duty eliminated = 9.5–12% (NOT 25% or 30% — common wrong options); India-UK DTAA is a separate and older agreement (1993) — the 2025 FTA is NOT a DTAA; India's sensitive sectors (dairy, cereals, pulses) are excluded from tariff elimination (India negotiated protection for agriculture).
[Additional] 8b. Four Labour Codes 2019-2020 — Framework and Implementation
The chapter discusses garment workers' conditions (Tirupur) under informal/contract labour but lacks India's four Labour Codes (2019-2020) that consolidate 29 central labour laws — enacted to modernise labour law, first implemented nationwide November 21, 2025 — directly tested in UPSC GS3 and GS2 (Social Justice).
Key Terms — Four Labour Codes:
| Term | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Four Labour Codes | Four Acts passed by Parliament (2019-2020) consolidating 29 central labour laws into a simpler framework; first nationwide implementation = November 21, 2025 |
| Code on Wages 2019 | Consolidates 4 laws (Payment of Wages Act 1936, Minimum Wages Act 1948, Payment of Bonus Act 1965, Equal Remuneration Act 1976); introduces National Floor Wage concept; universal coverage |
| IR Code 2020 | Code on Industrial Relations, 2020 — consolidates 3 laws (Trade Unions Act 1926, Industrial Employment (Standing Orders) Act 1946, Industrial Disputes Act 1947); raises retrenchment permission threshold from 100 → 300 workers |
| SS Code 2020 | Code on Social Security, 2020 — consolidates 9 laws including EPF Act 1952 + ESI Act 1948; first-ever definition and social security provisions for gig workers and platform workers |
| OSH Code 2020 | Code on Occupational Safety, Health and Working Conditions, 2020 — consolidates 13 laws including Factories Act 1948; factory threshold = 10 workers (with power) |
[Additional] Four Labour Codes — Key Provisions and UPSC-Tested Details (GS3 — Labour / GS2 — Social Justice):
Four Labour Codes — consolidation summary:
| Code | Parliament/Assent Date | Laws Consolidated | Key Change |
|---|---|---|---|
| Code on Wages, 2019 | August 8, 2019 | 4 laws | National Floor Wage; universal coverage; 50% wage cap on allowances |
| Code on Industrial Relations (IR Code), 2020 | September 28, 2020 | 3 laws | Retrenchment permission threshold: 100 → 300 workers |
| Code on Social Security (SS Code), 2020 | September 28, 2020 | 9 laws | Gig/platform workers formally covered for first time |
| Code on Occupational Safety, Health and Working Conditions (OSH Code), 2020 | September 28, 2020 | 13 laws | Factory threshold maintained at 10 workers (with power); compliance reduced from 55 forms → 20 |
| Total | — | 29 laws | — |
Implementation status: All four Codes' major provisions became effective nationwide November 21, 2025 (Central Government notification). States must frame their own rules for full operationalization — most states had published draft rules by early 2026.
Code on Wages, 2019 — key provisions:
| Provision | Detail |
|---|---|
| National Floor Wage | Central Government fixes a national floor wage; no state can set minimum wages below this; different floors for different geographies |
| Universal coverage | Applies to ALL workers — organised AND unorganised sectors (major expansion from earlier patchwork coverage) |
| 50% wage cap on allowances | Allowances (HRA etc.) cannot exceed 50% of total remuneration; any excess is treated as wages (affects EPF/gratuity calculations) |
| Fixed-Term Employment (FTE) | Formally codified; FTE workers entitled to gratuity after just 1 year (proportionate basis) vs. 5 years for regular employees |
| EPFO threshold | EPF applies to all establishments with 20 or more workers |
| ESIC coverage | ESIC (health insurance) now applies pan-India — removed the earlier "notified area" requirement |
Code on Industrial Relations (IR Code), 2020 — key provisions:
| Provision | Old threshold | New threshold |
|---|---|---|
| Prior govt. approval for retrenchment/lay-off/closure | 100 workers | 300 workers |
| Standing Orders (certified service rules) mandatory | 100 workers | 300 workers |
| Trade union negotiating agent recognition | Ad hoc | Formal recognition framework introduced |
"Hire and Fire" controversy: By raising the threshold from 100 → 300 workers, employers with up to 299 workers can retrench without prior government approval. Trade unions argue this enables easier dismissal in the vast majority of Indian industrial establishments. Industry groups argue it improves ease of doing business and attracts manufacturing investment.
Code on Social Security, 2020 — gig workers (landmark):
| Provision | Detail |
|---|---|
| Gig worker (defined) | Person performing work outside traditional employer-employee relationship, earning from such activities |
| Platform worker (defined) | Person engaged in work arranged through an online platform connecting buyers and service providers (e.g., Swiggy, Ola, Urban Company) |
| Aggregator contribution | Aggregators must contribute 1–2% of annual turnover (capped at 5% of payments to gig/platform workers) to a dedicated Social Security Fund |
| Benefits | Life and disability cover, accident insurance, health and maternity benefits, pension provisions |
| Portability | Aadhaar-linked and portable via e-Shram registration — benefits retained when switching platforms |
OSH Code, 2020 — key thresholds:
| Threshold | Applicability |
|---|---|
| Factory (with electrical power) | 10 or more workers |
| Factory (without electrical power) | 20 or more workers |
| Normal working hours | 8 hours/day and 48 hours/week |
| Overtime rate | Twice normal wages (beyond 9 hours/day or 48 hours/week) |
| Welfare Officer required | 250 or more workers |
| Compliance simplification | Forms: 55 → 20; Returns: 21 → 1; Registrations: 6 → 1 |
UPSC synthesis: Four Labour Codes = GS3 + GS2. Key exam facts: Code on Wages = August 8, 2019 = 4 laws consolidated = National Floor Wage; IR Code + SS Code + OSH Code = September 28, 2020 = 3+9+13 laws = total 29 laws; nationwide implementation = November 21, 2025; IR Code raises retrenchment threshold = 100 → 300 workers; SS Code = first definition of gig workers and platform workers = aggregator contribution = 1–2% of annual turnover; OSH Code factory threshold = 10 workers (with power); Code on Wages covers ALL workers in organised AND unorganised sectors. Prelims trap: Total central labour laws consolidated = 29 (NOT 44 — 44 was the initial figure of laws considered for rationalisation; the four codes actually consolidate 29); gig workers are first covered under SS Code 2020 (NOT Code on Wages — wages code covers all workers but gig worker social security is specifically under SS Code); IR Code retrenchment threshold = 300 workers (NOT 100 — 100 was the old threshold; it is now 300); Code on Wages assent = August 8, 2019 (the other three codes all have September 28, 2020 — do not mix them up); OSH Code factory threshold with power = 10 workers (same as old Factories Act threshold — this has NOT changed, but compliance procedures have been simplified).
Exam Strategy
Prelims traps:
- Tirupur = knitwear/T-shirt capital (Tamil Nadu) — NOT saris or silk; knitwear and hosiery
- India = 3rd or 4th largest garment exporter — China (#1), Bangladesh (#2), Vietnam (#3) are ahead; India's apparel exports ~$14–16 billion (2024); total textile+apparel = ~$34 billion
- India = 2nd largest cotton producer (by volume; China #1; India is largest by cultivated area)
- India = world's largest jute producer (~75% of world's jute production in Ganga delta; West Bengal + Bangladesh)
- WTO Doha Round: Agricultural subsidies the sticking point; India + G20 developing countries vs USA + EU
- PLI for Textiles focuses on MMF (man-made fibres) and technical textiles (NOT traditional cotton garments)
- PM MITRA = 7 parks (not 5 or 10); Ministry of Textiles; greenfield textile parks
Practice Questions
Prelims:
India is the world's largest producer of which of the following fibres?
(a) Silk
(b) Jute
(c) Wool
(d) PolyesterThe Production Linked Incentive (PLI) Scheme for Textiles specifically targets which segments?
(a) Cotton garments and handloom products
(b) Man-made fibres (MMF) and technical textiles
(c) Silk and woollen products
(d) Jute and coir productsWhich of the following statements about the WTO's Doha Development Round is correct?
(a) It was successfully concluded in 2013
(b) India agreed to reduce all agricultural subsidies
(c) It remains largely unresolved, with agricultural subsidies being a major sticking point between developed and developing countries
(d) India opted out of Doha Round negotiations
BharatNotes